Chlemoutsi / Clermont Castle

The archaeological site of Chlemoutsi Castle is situated in the village of Kastro, in the Municipality of Andravida – Kyllini, of the Ilia Regional Unit, on the westernmost cape of the Peloponnese, between Kyllini and the Kyllini Thermal Baths. Chlemoutsi is built on the summit of Chelonata Hill, the region’s highest point. From its prominent, strategic position it dominates the entire plain of Ilia, while overseeing southern Achaia, the Ionian Sea and the coast of Aitoloakarnania.

The name

Originally built by the Franks, the castle was named Château Clermont or Clairmont by its founders. In Greek it is known as Chloumoutzi, while the Venetians called it Castel Tornese. Today the name Chlemoutsi has prevailed.

Many theories have been expressed regarding the name’s origins. It is believed among others that Clermont comes from the latin clarus mons, i.e. renowned mountain, or shining/bright mountain. The names Chloumoutzi, Chlomoutzi or Chloumoutsi are encountered in the Chronicle of Morea. R. Pococke believes Chloumoutzi to be a Turkish name, in Buchon’s opinion, it is a phonetic alteration of Clermont, Wasmer claims it has a Slavic origin and means hill/height (see: Chelmos), while D.I. Georgakas reckons it comes from the Greek word for pale (chlomos). A. Chatzis argues that the place name comes from Chlomoutsis, a family name, i.e. the land owned by Chlomoutsi. Since the castle’s original name is French like its founders, we can argue that Chloumoutzi is a Greek adaptation of the French name, which Bon also accepts as the most likely interpretation.Regarding the name Castel Tornese, this is directly connected with the Frankish mint of deniers tournois coins of the Principality that was, wrongly, thought to have been inside the castle.

The Castle’s History

Chlemoutsi Castle,the administrative and military centre of the crusading Principality of Achaia, was the Franks’ largest construction programme in the Balkans, a remarkable example of fortification architecture of the Crusades, during the time of Frankish rule in the Peloponnese. It is one of the few cases where the Franks prefer to build a new castle rather than modernizing and reinforcing existing fortifications with Byzantine or even more ancient  phases of construction. This fortress–like Medieval palace is essentially an “implant” of French architecture, that transfers French 12th and 13th century prototypes to the territories of southern Europe. At the same time, however, it assimilates influences from castles of the crusading Middle East and being a landmark has a catalytic influence on the local Byzantine architectural tradition.

According to the Chronicle of Morea (verses 2631–2720), Chlemoutsi is constructed between 1220 and 1223 by Geoffrey I Villehardouin , first ruler of the Principality of Achaia. To carry out the construction of the castle the Frankish ruler clashed with the Catholic clergy of Achaia, retaining ecclesiastical revenues which caused him to be excommunicated by the Pope.”The prince became enraged and ordered that all the lands and fiefs wherein they had holdings be seized. And he would not take anything at all for himself from the incomes of the fiefs of all the churches but he ordered that the construction of Chloumoutsi be begun” (verses 2648–2653). The moment its construction was completed, Villehardouin sent word to the Pope that with Chlemoutsi he wished to protect the harbor and coast from the schismatic Greeks, thus serving the interests of the Roman Catholic church. The pope was convinced and revoked the excommunication reconciling Villehardouin with the clergy: “Now, for three years, the prince held the lands of all the churches, I tell you, of the principality ,until he finished the castle of Chloumoutsi… And the most holy pope, as soon as he was informed of this, straightway sent absolution to Prince Geoffrey. When the prince saw the absolution of the pope, he was very happy and glorified the Lord ” (verses 2654–2656 and 2679–2682).

Archaeological data, however, shows that despite its homogeneous character, Chlemoutsi was built in the 13th century in three successive phases. Its use as a fortress was not really what determined its final design. As an extremely luxurious construction its main aim was to function as a fortified palace and absolute symbol of the Frankish rulers’ sovereignty. Chlemoutsi Castle flourished during the dynasty of the Villehardouins, particularly in the reign of Guillaume II Villehardouin (1246–1278). Its strategic position had always been its strong point, because it was of value to the Franks’ ambitions as conquerors: “If by chance , the Franks were to lose Morea, they would win it back with this castle” (Chronicle of Morea, verses 2673–2674). The death in 1278 of William II was followed by a period of uncertainty and upheavals. Chlemoutsi was claimed by various members of the nobility in the violent struggles for succession to the sovereignty. It was initially inherited by Anna Agnes, wife of Guillaume II and daughter of Michael II, Komnenos Doukas, Despot of Epirus. The greatest conflict however broke out in 1313. Villehardouin’s granddaughter married Louis of Burgundy, who as Prince of Achaia succeeded Philip of Taranto who had died without descendants. However, Villehardouin’s other daughter, Marguerite, baroness of Akova, then arranged that her daughter be married to Ferdinand of Majorca ,leader of the Catalans, who lay claim to the Morea in the name of his wife. Marguerite was accused of treachery for her action and arrested and imprisoned in Chlemoutsi where she died in February 1315. Ferdinand nevertheless remained undaunted and seized Chlemoutsi where he would remain till 1316, when Louis of Burgundy defeated the Catalans and the castle was reclaimed by the Franks.

In the early 15th century, Chlemoutsi passed to Carlo Tocco, Count of Cephalonia and Despot of Epirus , while in 1427 it was peacefully handed down as dowry to Constantine Palaiologos, after his marriage to Tocco’s daughter. Palaiologos declared Chlemoutsi the official seat of the Despotate of the Morea and used the castle as a military and administrative centre to prepare his attack on Patras. A few years later, Constantine surrendered Chlemoutsi to his brother Thomas Palaiologos. Here, in 1454, the latter would imprison Giovanni, illegitimate son of the last prince of Achaia, Zachary II Centurione, who had rebelled against the Byzantines. In 1460, when the Turks invaded the Morea, Chlemoutsi was seized on their behalf by the Albanian Zagan Pasha, while in 1620 it was attacked and plundered by the knights of the order of St John of Malta. In 1687 the Venetians seized Chlemoutsi which they held till 1715 when it was reclaimed by the Turks, remaining in their hands till the Revolution of 1821. In the Venetian period, the castle had already lost its important role in the region’s defence which is confirmed by the proposal made in 1701 by the Venetian engineer Francesco Grimani to demolish Chlemoutsi and build a new fortress at Glarentza. Chlemoutsi appears to have played some part during the Greek Revolution, since it had already been taken over by the Greeks in 1821. When Ibrahim Pasha of Egypt and his army plundered Ilia in 1825, the local population fled to Chlemoutsi. It was then to be considerably destroyed when invaded by Ibrahim and partly blown up. Despite its significance, the castle was abandoned over a long period and suffered significant damage not so much by its occasional conquerors, but by being used by the locals as building material. For many years following Greece’s liberation, the inhabitants of the village just below Chlemoutsi would remove stones and other materials from the castle and used for building their houses.

History of research and interventions

The pre-excavation phase

Travellers (16th–1st half of 19th c.)

Chlemoutsi castle with its strategic and prominent position on the top of Chelonata Hill functioned as a landmark in the NW Peloponnese, despite the damage it had suffered over the centuries. Chroniclers, historians, scholars, cartographers, diplomats, soldiers, engineers, travelers and writers, when approaching or passing through the region, mention the famous castle in their texts, describe its powerful structure, identify the place with historical events and talk about its passage through time to its gradual decline and abandonment. One of the first texts referring to Chlemoutsi is the manuscript of a journey made by Denis Possot from Venice to the Holy Lands who, on his way, visits the shores of Ilia in 1534 and the mighty castle which he calls Tornese. In 1574, the Tornese Castle appears on a map by Giovanni Camocio, while in 1619, its name is written on a map of the Peloponnese by the Flemish Johannes van Cootwijck.

The region is visited by Evliya Çelebi between 1668 and 1671. The Turkish traveller who attributes the castle’s construction to the Venetians, mentions that Chlemoutsi was conquered by Bayezid Veli, it is a kaza and has a hundred guards. His description presents quite a decadent picture of the castle during the period of Ottoman rule: “In the inner fort is the house of the captain of the guard, the warehouses for ammunition, supplies and cisterns for water. Nothing else… Eighty stone houses with tiled roofs are built inside this wall, around the Mosque of Sultan Bayezid Veli. Outside the western part of the wall are two hundred houses of the Greek infidels, who are not allowed to enter the castle… Inside and outside the fort there is neither a market nor a bazaar, an inn, a hamam (baths), a school or a tekke (place of worship). It seems deserted…”.

In 1675, the region is visited by George Wheler and Jacob Spon arriving from the island of Zakynthos, who mention the existence of the Tornese castle six miles from the coast and the Turkish village called Clemouzzi surrounding it. In 1687 Chlemoutsi is occupied by the Venetians. A. Locatelli describes how on August 3rd the Turks surrendered the historic bastion, essentially without a battle, leaving behind 34 cannons, while about 150 men of the Turkish garrison remained in the castle and were converted to Christianity. At about that time V. Coronelli also visits the region. Apart from his written account, the drawings of the castle that illustrate Coronelli’s editions are extremely significant and since then have appeared in numerous reeditions, translations, later travel chronicles, historical writings and geographical work.

During Venetian rule, Chlemoutsi operates as the centre of the economic region of Ilia and consequently there are frequent references to it in official Venetian documents. In his report of 23rd January 1690, Giacomo Corner, first governor general of the Peloponnese after it was conquered by Morozini, notes the shortages of the fort, which he describes as small, without any particular infrastructure and barely fit for habitation. The same tone is adopted in his successor Tadio Gradenigo’s report on March 15th 1692. A report by the Venetian engineer Francesco Grimani, on October 8th 1701, confirms the decreased importance at that time of Chlemoutsi Castle in the region’s defense. His proposal, not realized however, is for Chlemoutsi to be demolished, as it no longer serves the interests of the Venetians, being old, far from any harbour and too costly to be restored. In its place a new fort would be built on the site of Glarentza, near the sea and the islands, where lay the economic interests of the Serenissima.

From the early 18th century many Europeans wish to tour Greece. The location of Chlemoutsi Castle, adjacent to the ancient remains of Ilia and Olympia,the travellers’ main destinations, results in its being referred to in most of the travel books and maps of the time.

In 1760, Richard Chandler disembarks in Glarentza and heading towards Palaiopolis in Ilia “leaves the town of Clemontzi or Clemouzzi on his right hand, above which, on top of a hill visible from Zakythos, rises the Tornese castle”. In 1798 François Pouqueville passes through the region, citing the abandoned Chloumoutzi with the village by that name on its perimeter, as well as the history of the castle’s construction as handed down in the Chronicle of Morea. William Martin Leake offers us valuable information about Chlemoutsi, when he visits the region in 1806. Leake makes a distinction between Khlemútzi or Khlomútzi, the modern village at the foot of the Chelonata Hill, and the medieval Tornese castle. According to the traveller, the village’s name originates either from the word chlemos, chlomos or chelmos which often describes small wooded hills with reference to the vegetation, from the Greek word chloa, while the castle owes its name to the tornesi or tournois coin minted by the Frankish princes. Leake believed that, in any other hands but the Turks’, who did not appreciate its value, the strategically placed castle could be used to advantage as a significant military hub. He writes that although half ruined, it is still one of the most respected fortresses in Greece. Leake describes the fort’s interior, while guessing from remains of icon paintings and testimonies of the locals, that at a later date it was turned into a monastery. Last he criticizes designs by Coronelli of plans of the castle because, in his view, they do not correspond to reality.

Scholars (2nd half of 19th–early 21st c.)

From the 2nd half of the 19th century, the region is no longer visited by travellers, but by scholars of ancient and medieval monuments of corresponding historical periods in Greece.

Jean Alexandre Buchon comes to the region in 1841. He cites information from the Chronicle of Morea about the founding of the castle, while making lengthy reference to its name’s origin. According to the traveller, the Franks named the castle Clermont (clarus mons) but also Mata–Grifon (Matte–Grecs) because of its contribution in their struggle to prevail upon the Greeks, while the latter named it Château Tournois / Castro Tornese, which was also used by the Venetians (Castel Tornese). Buchon emphasizes its pivotal position which contributed to the defence of Frankish territories, but notes that despite its strong construction it could not withstand Ibrahim’s bombardments. Lastly, reference is made to the confusion surrounding the name of Chlemoutsi castle which is often given the name of Glarentza castle.

In the summer of 1905, the architect and academic Ramsay Traquair visits Chlemoutsi (Clairmont, Chlomoutsi, Castel Tornese). Although he finds the medieval fortress in ruins, he is impressed by its luxurious construction. Traquair however formulates an interesting theory about determining the castle’s date; he places it in the early 15th century by a comparative examination of the walls of the three castles of Chlemoutsi,Glarentza and Pontikokastro and various historical data. Traquair finds it strange that while sources speak extensively about the erection of Chlemoutsi Castle, nothing is mentioned about the construction of Glarentza castle and he discerns some confusion as to the position of either one. He assumes, therefore, that Chlomoutsi or Castel Tornese, which took its name from the famous mint whose coins bore the word “Clarentia”, was not a separate castle, but the fortress–tower located at the south western edge of the town of Glarentza. He also argues that the Castel Tornese still surviving in the peninsula’s hinterland, 5 klm from Glarentza, is a second Castel Tornese built by Constantine Palaiologos in the 15th century.

Traquair’s radical theory led to the Minister of Education Spyridon P. Lambrou ordering an extensive study of the medieval fortress. In 1919, the curator of antiquities George Sotiriou arrives at Chlemoutsi Castle and carries out an excavation survey. Sotiriou identifies the building remains in the outer enclosure as barracks, he points out those parts of the walls repaired during Turkish rule, excavates the remaining mosque and concludes that Chlemoutsi was never inhabited by an urban population. In the inner enclosure he identifies some of the halls as sleeping quarters, while pointing out the site of the castle’s church and prison. From a detailed examination of excavation data, from the masonry and the castle’s careful construction, Sotiriou concluded that coins were minted here. Moreover, this was further confirmed by his locating the tournois mint in a hall of the inner enclosure, where upon pulling down a furnace from Turkish times, he discovered charred bricks, coins, rust ,traces of a fire and a basin. This discovery offers Sotiriou the necessary arguments to disprove Traquair’s theory and firmly argue that Chlemoutsi is beyond doubt a Gothic building. A few years later in 1922, the medieval castle of Chlemoutsi is declared an outstanding Byzantine monument by royal decree (Royal Decree 25-2-1922/Government Gazette, Issue 28/Α/26-2-1922), in an attempt to protect the remaining ruins, according to Greek legislation then in force (Law 2447/1921).

In 1925, George Papandreou, teacher and eminent historian, publishes his book Ilia through the centuries where he speaks at length about Chlemoutsi. In it he notes: “Unfortunately, for some years now, some terrible builders gradually destroy mercilessly and unreasonably, without any control or punishment by the authorities, this major work of Frankish rule in the Morea ,so as to use its stones to built the surrounding villages”, pointing out the danger of the monument being totally destroyed by the locals using it as building material.

Between 1925 and 1938 the region is visited and explored by the archaeologist Antoine Bon. In his work La Morée franque, one of the most important sources of historical and archaeological data on Chlemoutsi to date , he mentions in detail the different names attributed to it, analyzes the historical framework and the conditions of its founding, describes the castle, its various architectural phases ,the function of the halls and the buildings inside it. He stresses that it is a grand Gothic building and concludes that Chlemoutsi essentially starts to lose its important role in the region’s defense from the period of Venetian rule, despite its use up to the Greek Revolution. The disagreement of the French archaeologist with his Greek colleague on the use of the hall of the inner enclosure was particularly significant. Where Sotiriou had pictured the mint, Bon saw the castle’s kitchens. At the same time, he supported the existence of the mint at Glarentza, basing this on evidence from sources and archaeological observations, a position also confirmed by contemporary archaeological research.

A few years later, English archaeologist Kevin Andrews visits Chlemoutsi as part of his research, which is published in 1953. Andrews bases his comprehensive description on historical sources and archaeological data, focuses on the architectural presentation and documentation of the castle, enhanced with plenty of photographs and drawings. He concludes that Chlemoutsi retains numerous architectural features that date to its initial phase of construction during Frankish rule.

Also significant is the study by French archeologist Jean Servais, who visits the region in the 1960s and excavates the lower strata of Chelonata Hill. Servais locates remains from Middle Helladic and Mycenaean times which support the view that, with the exception of these prehistoric traces, the site remained uninhabited till the period of Frankish rule.

Among younger researchers exclusively studying Chlemoutsi castle by doing mainly field work, it is worth mentioning Myrto Georgopoulou–Verra, Stefania Skartsis and particularly Demetris Athanasoulis. There are also a few publications on Chlemoutsi addressed to the general public, e.g. Eric Forbes–Boyd, I. Sfikopoulos, Athena Tarsouli, Dinos Psychogios, Alexander Paradissis, Ε. Karpodini–Demetriadi.

Interventions: Excavations, restoration,
and works of enhancement

The first period of interventions (1968–1996)

Since 1968, Chlemoutsi Castle has systematically attracted the interest of the Archaeological Service. The uniqueness of the monument and its mediocre state of preservation have led to a series of interventions: clearing of vegetation, gathering demolished building material, stabilizing and restoring masonry of the outer walls, removal of soil and opening excavation trenches for the discovery of architectural remains, conducting rescue restoration interventions in the outer enclosure, partially renovating the vaults, completing the existing cobbled route, designing the outer enclosure with a suitable space for events, installing electric lighting, constructing a guard booth etc. All this work aims to restore the monument and prevent further damage, despite the fact that certain interventions have somewhat altered the castle’s original appearance, even though important architectural elements were rescued in the process. In 1981 and 1985, protection zones are specified on the archaeological site and conditions and restrictions are determined regarding any building activity or usage.

Works on the castle’s restoration, enhancement and landscape design as part of European cofunded programmes (1997–2014)

The Ministry of Culture’s systematic promotion of a plan to restore and enhance the castle begins in 1997,when Chlemoutsi was included in the 2nd CSF. The first phase, completed in 2000, includes the complete restoration of hall A5 of the inner enclosure, so as to create an exhibition space for Ilia’s medieval antiquities. Between 2005 and 2008, work funded by the 3rd CSF continues. It involves restoring the entrance, designing the courtyard of the inner enclosure, converting a hall into an office and workshop for conserving antiquities, modifying three halls into suitably equipped museum spaces and implementing the museology–museography study of the exhibition entitled “The era of knights – Crusaders in the Morea” that will finally open to the public in June 2009. The restoration and layout work at Chlemoutsi continues also with funding from NSRF. Between 2011 and 2014 extensive work is carried out on stabilizing and enhancing halls A1-A2 as follows: replacement of destroyed parts of their vaults, jointing of inside masonry, restoring parts of the floor and windows, installing lighting for the enhancement of the space, constructing a wooden walk for visitors, putting up protective railings, constructing an information kiosk and access for the disabled etc.

Systematic maintenance and upgrading work is currently being carried out at the archaeological site to make the medieval castle accessible to the public on a daily basis.

The thematic museum of Chlemoutsi / Clermont Castle

The museum’s character and aims

The museum of Chlemoutsi Castle is, to date, the first and only thematic museum exclusively concerned with the period of the crusaders in Greece. In the field of culture, a museum inside a monument is an original idea, because it evolves in such a way that the shell of the museum space, i.e .the castle itself, also constitutes its main exhibit. It is an “open museum”, with the visitor viewing the exhibits in their natural environment, without particular scenographic interventions, and experiencing something unique through this experiential approach. Its theme concentrates on the period of the Frankish rule (13th–15th century), as seen in southern mainland Greece, with particular emphasis on the region of Ilia which was also the centre of the principality of Achaia. The culture displayed is of a period that is fascinating to the general public, but also negatively charged, since this period is often considered as one of decadence under foreign rule.

The museum is original in its new approach of not fearing to enhance monuments that are symbols of “foreign rule” in Greece. In contrast with the policy that was prevalent till recently, the exhibition in Chlemoutsi Castle introduces a new practice that is museologically, culturally and ideologically innovative. Although it is housed in the emblematic Chateau Clermont — royal palace of the Villehardouins which is the most representative monument of crusader rule in Greece — it allows a positive interpretation of this rule, which cannot be achieved by the monument alone, being a symbol of absolute power. The exhibition’s aim is to offer new historical facts, to function as a place of museum education, lifelong learning and recreation, but also to be an agent of creative development and social activities, contributing to the region’s economic growth.

The exhibition: The fascination of discovering the medieval world

The museum that opened to the public in June 2009, is housed in the “heart” of the castle, since it unfolds in four parts of the inner enclosure: in A5, the restored two storey hall with a total area of 320 sq.m., identified as the princess’s apartments and in the two ground floor halls on either side of the passage way (approximately 35 sq.m. and 70 sq.m. respectively), under the royal chapel and reception hall. Moreover, in an appropriately adapted part of the inner courtyard (approx. 40 sq.m.) an outdoor exhibition displays stone architectural members from the area of Ilia.

The exhibition evolves in five basic sections with subsections that include over 500 artifacts, dating from the 13th to the 15th c. AD. The exhibition material, almost exclusively from excavations, comes from medieval sites in Ilia (mainly from the town of Glarentza, Chlemoutsi Castle and the Isova Monastery) but also from the greater area of excavations in the Principality’s territories (Patras, Corinth), while there is a very rich collection of medieval ceramics. Each section is self contained, so the visitor is not obliged to follow one compulsory route. On the contrary, one is given the opportunity to freely tour a Frankish castle, constructing a narrative of one’s choice, as one gradually discovers ideas, stories and artifacts of the Medieval period.